Milan Menswear Spring 2010 Trend: Suit Dressing is Hip & Cool

MILAN, Jun 22, 2009 / FW/ — The travel theme continues in Milan and one thing that these jet-setting men share in common is the suit jacket. Like the trench coat, the suit is also the subject of deconstruction and reconstruction this season as designers propose new way to wear it and new silhouettes for it.

Versace, Carlo Pignatelli Outside, Gucci
Versace, Carlo Pignatelli Outside, Gucci

Recognizing the importance of the Middle East and India as luxury markets, Donatella Versace and Carlo Pignatelli made the kurta “the shirt” that goes with the suit. Though this might look strange to westerners, this is also a sign that fashion had gone global and beyond the traditional borders.

But the kurta is not just the new thing added. Donatella Versace also proposed a new closure for double breasted suits. Instead of the traditional buttons, she used straps and D-rings.

White seem to be a favorite color too. Gucci, together with Versace, Carlo Pignatelli and Neil Barrett built their collections around a white suit. Of course they also proposed other colors, but white was given center stage.

Calvin Klein, Roberto Cavalli, Etro
Calvin Klein, Roberto Cavalli, Etro

When it comes to sharp elegant silhouettes, Calvin Klein, Roberto Cavalli and Etro did more than just justice to the suit jacket.

Italo Zuchelli at Calvin Klein cut the suit just perfect, enough to show the shape of the male torso, but loose enough for easy movement. And with a transparent shirt under it, it just makes it the suit of choice of Chris Pine’s Captain Kirk.

Because we just have to accept it, whether Captain Kirk is played by Chris Pine or William Shatner, he one sexy Starfleet captain! And a Calvin Klein suit will give that swagger the sophistication it needs.

And though Roberto Cavalli, by his standards had turned low key this season, his suits are far from being wall flower. Let us just say that if the Jonas Brothers start wearing Roberto Cavalli, they will find themselves more than just teen heartthrobs.

Need any reference? Ask Megan Fox, who was voted by FHM as the Sexiest Woman Alive. She wore a Roberto Cavalli at the Berlin premiere of Transformers 2. Her sex appeal went up several notches that made one wonder, does she really need more help in that department?

Etro is betting that the return of the bowtie is not just a flash in the pan, but here to stay! I believe that men dressing up are good for everyone’s morale. Woodstock was 40 years ago; it changed the way we dress. Casual became a lifestyle. The 1950s are forever gone, but the elegance it radiates can come back.

Prada, Neil Barrett, Salvatore Ferragamo
Prada, Neil Barrett, Salvatore Ferragamo

Double-breasted suits do not have to be very formal as proven by Prada, Neil Barrett and Salvatore Ferragamo. Styled properly like what Miuccia Prada did – without a tie or Neil Barrett who decided that shirts are optional; while at Ferragamo, a hat in a rakish angle did the trick, the double breasted suit is something a modern day Casanova or Don Juan should wear.

Byblos, Enrico Coveri, Dirk Bikkembergs
Byblos, Enrico Coveri, Dirk Bikkembergs

Designers do think of everything, and a man need not worry that there is no suit out there to fit his taste. At Byblos, the Internet Generation will find out that Manuel Facchini is their friend when it comes to suits.

For the college boys or just out of the university, Enrico Coveri’s casual outlook will be appealing.

And for the sportive male, they don’t have to look far because Dirk Bikkembergs is their man.

[MARI DAVIS]

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