Milan Menswear Fall 2010 / Winter 2011
Dates: Jan 16 – 19, 2010

The more it changes, the more it stays the same

Duomo di Milano

DALLAS, Dec 12, 2009 / FW/ — In April 2004, before the start of the Spring 2005 menswear season, FW asked, “Is Capitol Hill ready for Helmut Lang and Hedi Slimane?” The conclusion was Washington D.C. still remains the last bastion of conservative dressing in the U.S.

Six years had passed since then. We now have a Democrat in the White House (translate that to liberal) instead of a Republican (translate that to conservative). Even the two protagonists of the article – Helmut Lang and Hedi Slimane had “retired” from fashion design.

There are so many changes, yet, it seemed that every time we take two steps forward, we also take a step back; sometimes, it is even the other way around, one step forward then take two steps back.

Let’s look at things in general, six years ago, the U.S. was at war; today, the U.S. is still at war and sending more troops to Afghanistan, though Pres Barack Obama said during his campaign that he would be sending the troops home if he won. Obama did win, but from his actions, it seems George W. Bush was right all along about the war.

Six years ago, there was a worldwide fight for gay rights. Today, Uganda is trying to pass a law that will make homosexuality punishable by death!

On the fashion side, Dockers is bringing khaki back with a global campaign to make khaki, preferably made by Dockers, the go-to versatile pants in a man’s wardrobe.

In Milan, last season, the biggest trends were the suit and the reinvented trench coat.
But, when you think about it, the fashion houses that show in Milan are actually on the leading edge of the nostalgia trip!

Burberry, Costume National, CP Company, Trussardi, Jil Sander, Giorgio Armani, Les Hommes and Ermenegildo Zegna, among others reinvented the trench coat last season to critical acclaim!

Versace, Gucci, Carlo Pignatelli, Calvin Klein, Roberto Cavalli, Etro, Prada, Neil Barrett, Salvatore Ferragamo, Byblos, Enrico Coveri and Dirk Bikkembergs all proposed suits as the hip clothes for the season.

After years of jeans and street wear, we have finally come full circle and back to formal dressing again! Is it because like everything around us, from Mother Nature to the financial world, we are trying to find the right balance?

Everything is about balance, even in fashion. Make it too artistic and it will not sell; make it too commercial and it will not sell either.

Finding that perfect balance between artistry and commercial viability has always been one of the traits of Milano Moda Uomo. In short, we always find our sweet spot in Milan.

[MARI DAVIS]

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