PARIS FASHION WEEK / — In the Italian tradition of Commedia dell’arte, the character of Harlequin can easily be identified by his multicolored costume covered in bright diamond shapes. His signature patch-up also suggests his complex character, as well as the ambivalence of all emotions.
The Maison Michel Autumn/Winter 2018-19 Collection explores a theatrical universe, as to mark a departure from reality, and symbolize a multiplicity of interpretations and uses.
It is divided in three acts. The first one is dedicated to Harlequin himself: multicolored tweeds, lurex checks, faux fur all hint at a game of double-entendre.
The palette juxtaposes burnt orange, vivid blue, beige, plum, black, deep red, with blown and colored glass beads used as ornamentation.
The second chapter, Trouble Maker, draws inspiration from the French tradition of Marivaux: Tricorn hats and textured fabrics all filled with hidden details, underlining the transformative and performative power of clothes.
As for the third act, Mascarade, it plays on the exaggeration and sophistication of costume balls: Fortuny-printed jacquards, crystals on velvet, ribbons reminiscent of ecclesiastic detailing, give a twist to the simplest of masks. The air of mystery emanating from a concealed face is also highlighted by using hybrid materials, bi-material camouflage fabric and reversible wool-satin textiles.
In times of deep uncertainty, of quests towards truth and authenticity, this collection translates our desire to believe in something else – and find meaning outside imposed narratives.
