MILAN, Jun 24, 2008 / FW/ — Was it Hedi Slimane pulling the strings at Gucci? It is ONLY my imagination, but somehow, the rock band theme, pencil slim trousers and overall rock & roll atmosphere made one feel that it has been seen before, at the Dior Homme runway during the time of iconoclastic designer Hedi Slimane.
Okay, it was not a bad collection. Frida Giannini actually has a lot to offer from the studded white biker jacket to the black suits and jackets with subtle stripes suited more for a club than dining out. And as always, this is Gucci, hence the accessories – shoes and bags are just wonderful! I really mean it.
There are also a lot of clothes that young men would love to own and make it part of their wardrobe. Yet, what is missing is the innovative and groundbreaking bent that the fashion world expects from a house as prolific as Gucci.
Sending on the runway what the ‘market expects’ or ‘something so wearable’ that the look had been done over and over by other designers and fashion houses is a sad affair especially at Gucci.
Yet, somehow, there is a feeling that Frida Giannini is not the reason why there is such a ‘commercial aspect’ in the Gucci collections of late. There is someone much higher than Giannini in the corporate structure that is pulling the strings and in turn making the decision on which direction Gucci will take.
And, if the reason for Gucci’s being nowadays is profit, then, don’t expect any innovations or groundbreaking designs from Gucci until this decade is over.
Milano Moda Uomo Spring 2009