Runway Shows

Costume National Menswear Spring 2009: 36 Ideas for the Future

Ennio Capasa on the runway, Spring 2009 Milan

Ennio Capasa on the runway, Spring 2009 Milan

MILAN, Jul 10, 2008/ FW/ — While most designers are interested in the future Ennio Capasa takes this interest to the extreme. Costume National is always techno conscious and fashion forward and for Spring Summer 09 Ennio Capasa made sure that fashion forward meant new and futuristic. With 36 exits Ennio proposed 36 ideas for the future.

This year when the importance of being green is ever more pertinent in our day-to-day lives, natural becomes a part of our future. No longer is the future represented solely by super tech fabrics and sleek sheens but also by the ‘au natural’. Costume National reflected this new future by blending their signature futuristic techno looks with more natural earthy ones.

Colors were lighter and more romantic then the normal Costume National palette. Tan, white, grey almost fully replaced the typical black that we normally see and highlights in burnt yellow and silvery midnight blue were other toned down versions of Costume’s classic colors.

Pants followed the big trend of the season and were cut off right above the ankle in the famous Thom Browne style. The silhouette was slim or illusionary slim with larger fit sheers adding misleading volumes.

There was a touch of femininity in the collection with cut outs in the back of shirts and a weightlessness in the materials giving a feminine edge to the rather masculine styles. Sheers and glosses could be interpreted as both feminine and futuristic or both, considering how strong a player men’s fashion is today’s fashion world.

The collection stayed with Costume National’s roots while playing with ideas for a sustainable future. The blend of shiny jackets and recycled materials still has room to grow but for now just getting the idea out there is a step in the right direction.

[LISA HELM}
Photos by LISA HELM

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