Runway Shows

Gabriele Colangelo Fall 2009: Sartorial and Minimal

Gabriele Colangelo Fall 2009

Gabriele Colangelo Fall 2009

MILAN, Feb 28, 2009 — Continuing the artistic bent that he started last season, Gabriele Colangelo tackled minimalism with an artsy flair as he incorporated artisanal work, embroidery and fur in his creations but sticking to the essentials and thus creating an experimental tension that is deliciously beautiful.

Emphasizing the waist with a sewn-in obi belt, Colangelo used micro accordion pleats to create vertical lines that morphed into an adornment while also adding movement to the rigorous silhouettes. Feminine pliss├ęs made of wool fabrics are highlighted by Japanese beadings and extra small iridescent couvettes.

With the hemline just above the knee, there is a certain conservatism that the collection projects. Yet, with the geometric shapes in the layered panels and discreet metalized gilding, there is also a futuristic element.

Futurism is further enhance with the lightness and minimal interpretation of fur items as seen in the very light mink furs in navy blue, chocolate brown, without lining, to be worn as impalpable warm sweaters.

A native of Milan, Gabriele Colangelo is a hometown boy who has done great; yet the deafening applause he received at the end of show is not because he was home, it is because he deserves it!

[MARI DAVIS]

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