PARIS, Mar 7, 2009 / FW/ — With a remix of ‘Big Spender’ on the soundtrack, Gaspard Yurkievich mined the 1930s and the 1970s, which was a welcome relief after seeing 1980s-inspired collection at New York, London, Milan and even here in Paris.
Entitled ‘Passion, Love and Pleasure’, Yurkievich proposed ultra femininity as Bob Fosse celebrated in the famous Broadway play ‘Cabaret.’ Yet, there was also an element of androgyny, as Liza Minnelli did with her very short hair in Cabaret. Gaspard Yurkievich did not use the hair though to reference androgyny. He chose the pantsuits wherein he used masculine fabrics like gabardine and herringbone flannel.
And since this is Gaspard Yurkievich, sex was never far behind. The French-born designer alluded to it in his color palette of ruby, grape and champagne. It was also seen in the skirts, which were proposed in two shapes; the bubbling drape in heavy satin while the other one was flared and constructed with inverted pleats.
The art deco jewelry, which were actually part of the garment referenced the 1930s – big without being gaudy, the jewelry was seen as a couture element added into the prêt-a-porter mix.
Photos by Thomas Barnes