MILAN, Jun 20, 2009 / FW/ — For Spring 2010, Christopher Bailey celebrates the brand’s “British-ness” as he went for the quintessential British understatement wherein luxury is not for ostentation but rather of material choices which in turn decreed one’s social positioning.
With the use of new light fabrics, the classic trench coat was given a make-over. Losing its rigidity, it was given ‘wrinkled seams’ and thus giving it an urban feel. That ‘wrinkle’ was even extended to the waist as the classic trench belt became a drawstring.
Yet, on another twist, the belt of the trench coat became transverse bands that were added as adornments and thus creating the season’s signature look.
Though the trench coat seems to be the focal point, Christopher Bailey also sent out classic coats that are intended for the young British gent. Again, there is that understatement and abhorrence to ostentation; yet because of that, it is also more precious and appealing.
Seeing this collection made me think of two of Britain’s most famous “cops”, James Bond 007 and Sherlock Holmes. Both are fictional and come from two different eras. Their legacy lives on in popular culture, their British-ness part of their charm.
Sherlock Holmes always wore a trench coat while James Bond favored suits; I wonder if Christopher Bailey were thinking of them while designing the collection.
[MARI DAVIS]
