MILAN, Sep 25, 2009 / FW/ — Was the late Gianfranco Ferré a fan of punk? Well, it seems so. At the Gianfranco Ferré show, a new iconic emblem for the label, the Signature Pin, was announced.

Gianfranco Ferre Spring 2010
Gianfranco Ferre Spring 2010

According to the press notes, the Signature pin is “an object the architect Gianfranco Ferre had quite a fondness for: he loved wearing on his shirt two interlinking gold safety-pins, one as a tie-pin and the other as jewel-pendant.”

And of course, those who follow the history of punk know that the safety pin is also part of this youth subculture’s symbology.

Alright, it might just be a coincidence, the safety pin as a favorite jewelry of the late Gianfranco Ferré, but its connection to punk was not lost on the maison’s co-Creative Directors, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi who decided that the models wear crimped hair.

But, that was the end of the punk reference, because what followed was signature Gianfranco Ferré – organic shapes and shades folding naturally into themselves, forming vortices that are almost evanescent.

Delicate to the point of being ethereal, the impalpable silk and voile wrap the body then drape almost carelessly, resulting to a feminine silhouette that is so Gianfranco Ferré.

Aquilano and Rimondi also played with texture, subtle though they maybe. Silk and voile were placed on each other, overlapping at times, thus there was transparency and solidity, a structure with fluid consistency.

Black, beige and white dominate but they were interspersed with metallic gold as seen on the light organza and chiffon. There was balance and counterpoints as the Gianfranco Ferré woman is reborn in a new light.