PARIS, Jan 22, 2011/ FW/ — This season for Gustavolins is all about rethinking the tailoring codes of the male wardrobe by deconstructing and shifting its volumes, redrawing sleeves and collars to create very supple, convertible, and reversible garments.
The very full silhouettes in this collection give a comfortable, flowing, mobile line that stresses the great freedom of wearing clothes, either open or fastened by hooks or thin leather belts. Gustavo Lins’ coats were beautiful, with high, wide collars inspired by the crosses sash of the Japanese kimono.
The shawl collar has made a return this season and was seen on several jackets in leather and knits. The comfortable armholes of the coats and cardigans in this collection are tightened at the elbows by long, glove-like leather or knitted sleeves.
The mix of textures accentuated the elements of design and details in the collection. The rigour of the “Saville Row” style of certain jacket and coats is softened by very personal details and finishing touches.
The influence of military and sportswear clothing, such as parkas, flying jackets, etc., is redefined and attenuated by the use of luxurious fabrics and materials. The knitwear, inspired by kimono sashes, take the form of ample coats and fine-gauge twinsets.
The collection, therefore, deploys a broad repertoire of shapes and materials in a color palette of greys and neutrals heightened by touches of cardinal red, white, khaki green, and dark blue. Gustavo Lins achieved a nonconformist fluidity in the linear construction of his tailoring and new take on the classic elements of men’s dressing.
[LINDSAY McCALLUM]
Photos by Patrick Stable, courtesy of Gustavolins
