MILAN, Dec 21, 2011/ — Presenting three themes for Fall 2012, 18CRR81 Cerruti’s second theme focuses on the city of Paris, as immortalized in a black & white film set at the beginning of the ‘60s.
An intriguing tale of passions against the backdrop of an epoch in ferment generates the collection’s most aggressive mood, in which grey and black, with almost imperceptible glints of blue and red, are the key colours alongside denim.
For her, a revisiting of the parka, now in heavy nylon, with a removable quilted hood, a belt round the waist and a lining that falls below the hem, and s biker jacket that’s become decidedly more urban thanks to the play of different cuts and quilting.
The down jackets also show some original quilt designs, such as lozenge or tubular shapes gradually flaring out towards the bottom. The wool-lurex weave appears alongside nylon in the trench and the small jacket, both characterized by ample removable fur-fabric collars, a trend that returns in the retro looking double-breasted coat.
Sixties flavour textured wool is definitely back, as in the collarless coat with four pockets on the front and fringed borders, the robe-cut blazer and the suit with a woven skirt and cupro top. This mood is also seen in the short and straight jersey dress with a tailored collar and zip on the front.
Alongside the dresses, there are ample, draping blouses and shirtdresses in printed viscose or silk to wear over flared velvet trousers. New models include trousers and a gym skirt made of stretch flannel with a lateral silk band.
The silk-cashmere knitwear has been given an unusual twist with buttons that are different one from another or graded inserts of old-effect metal sequins, while the heavier knits play on stitches and ribbing to create pseudo-geometrical patterns or trace a large cable around the neck in a contrasting colour.
The men’s quilts are made of leather, with lozenge pattern bomber or “biker” cuts as alternatives to the woollen flannel heavy jacket or field jacket with nylon detailing. Nylon is back in the long Eskimo coat with a removable hood, the single-breasted trench with a removable lining and the tubular quilt bomber jacket featuring a broken mirror print.
There are three overcoats (single- and double-breasted and a ¾ with patch pockets) made of a wool/cashmere cloth with colour contrast detailing.
Underneath, a washed check flannel blazer or knits that use three yarns of different consistency and tone to create microtexturing and streaking. Irregular, non-parallel stripes in tones of red and blue characterize the V- or high-neck pullovers, while the thin, working-style tops feature tone-on-tone details, piping or patches. The offering is rounded out by a hooded sweatshirt made of salt-and-pepper effect mouliné cotton.
The shirts are gritty, with a double pocket and stud buttons, coming in plain velvet or in cotton with variously sized checks or micro-jacquard effect prints. The trousers, 5-pocket or chinos, are made of vintage velvet, textured cotton or houndstooth wool, while the new slim-cut cargo pocket model is made of old style Bedford piquet. Alongside these, there’s a more aggressive looking 5-pocket made of black fabric that’s been resin-treated and faded to produce a leather effect but without sacrificing the comfort and wearability of denim.
The 18CRR81 CERRUTI collection is completed by a denim offering. The season’s colours range from blue to black alongside grey, and are characterized by a clean look, delicate washes and non-invasive treatments (a soft stonewash at the most or faint scratches on borders and pockets). The simplicity of the colours and washes sets off the special detailing, above all in the women’s models: lurex yarn stitching, embroidery, old-style sequins on pockets. In addition to the powerstretch denim leggings, the women’s collection now has three denim prints: a cashmere flock that fades from bottom up, a houndstooth and an hibiscus. These printed denims are then washed to produce an old flavoured hazy effect.