Paris Fashion

Paris Fashion Week Men’s: Namacheko Fall Winter 2019

Namacheko F19Namacheko Fall/Winter 2019: Trapped in the Office

“Trapped in the Office” could be the title of the Namacheko Autumn Winter 2019 collection, said Dilan Lurr on his press notes, who together with his sister Lezan founded the Namacheko label on January 2017.

For the designing Lurr siblings, the notion started with a fascination of self-portraits and autobiographies. The challenge was how to find the confidence to do such a thing, to draw a self-portrait in the form of a collection.

Reminiscing, Lurr said, “This collection brings me back to the age of 23, having completed two years in a civil engineering program at Lund University in Sweden. I began to question my life choices as a student lacking ambition, only playing videogames, partying and painting with oil colors. The fear in me grew at the thought of becoming an engineer and spending the rest of my life in an office.”

Then, he continued…

“Now two years into fashion, I find myself again reassessing choices. I am thinking of the people who once inspired me to choose the engineering path, people like Dieter Rams, Frank Lloyd Wright and Achille Castiglioni.

I began imagining the other reality, how I would have dressed in that office. I see tailor-made suits by Liverano & Liverano in Florence, shoes by Enzo Bonafe and ties by Hermös. However, the other side of me is fighting for the right to express my love for art and music. The so-called “creative mind” is constantly reminding me of its presence, all while standing in that office.

References are made to Mir6 and Calder with their geometric organic shapes, from Vincent van Gogh to Edward Munch as well as Glen Brown, to Wilhelm Mundt’s work, Trashstones and the movements and illusions of kinetic art. This wide range of genres and artists from different time periods represent the mind of a lost 23-year-old, choosing a new path for life every other day.

The Namacheko Fall/Winter 2019 collection is heavy on technique and construction. The opening look reimagines the shape of the dart of a suit jacket, with a seventeen-part relief that has been top stitched with contrast color yarn to enhance its shape.

Printed nylon is woven on silk looms. The mesh coats are made by multiple layers of knitted polyester, knitted on top of each other. The classic looking wools are made of more than five individual shades weaved into 2PIy x 3pIy fabric. My fabrics are my building material, the subject I used to love in engineering.”

Photos courtesy of Namacheko

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