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Romeo Gigli Menswear Spring 2009: Defying the Big Fashion Machine

Romeo Gigli Menswear Spring 2009

Romeo Gigli Menswear Spring 2009

MILAN, Jun 22, 2008 / FW/ — Surprisingly authentic and original, Gentucca Bini, designing for Romeo Gigli proposes a transformation, i.e., menswear based on womenswear, without the requisite sequins and bows.

The press notes said that the collection is an ideogram with a touch of Mod and Japanese origami. Bini did her homework. It’s obvious from the resulting looks that a lot of research had been done. This collection might not reflect what the mainstream market wants, even what the niche market desires; but Bini was very successful in creating a silhouette that is novel and arguably, groundbreaking.

Perhaps, as fashion pundits and fashion followers, we have become enslaved to trends. Maybe, everyone had been reading the same trends books or even commission the services of the same coolhunters.

So, when an established fashion house like Romeo Gigli proposes something that is not mentioned in the trend book, it felt like an affront to our senses. Yet, quite frankly, Bini did something very brave, i.e., defy the big fashion machine!

Again, quoting the press notes, the collection is “as contradictive as it is strict: apparently wintry, yet summery in substance. Items are lightweight, shapes are always comfortable, but construction is much more conceptual than in previous seasons.”

Actually, that says it all as Bini, as a result of accurate technical research had transformed the more common structure into something unheard-of. Tartan, Prince of Wales and checks will garner a previously unknown sense for next summer.

An added attraction, the shoes! Footwear is light, in soft leather and bi-coloured: sky blue and white or grey and white. Slightly retro, laced, but able to lose their toes and become sabots.

[MARI DAVIS]