MILAN, Sep 25, 2008 / FW/ — Before there was draping, there was the moulage, an ancient tailoring technique that constructs dresses directly on the mannequin. Manuela Arcari, designing for Ter et Bantine used moulage to create a modernly romantic collection for Spring / Summer 2009.
Keeping the label’s signature minimalist tendencies and tailored looks, Manuela Arcari skillfully adjusted the technique to morph structured silhouettes like the trousers into soft shapes by adding pleats and cutting the fabric wide.
The pantsuit was reworked; with one-shoulder tunic that was gathered at the hem, and then separated to create two pant legs that just reached below the knee. Comfortable and functional, it is an innovative take on a classic clothing.
But, Arcari did not stop there. She molded dresses, trousers and tops on the body while artfully assembling flowing pleats and soft bows. The unrestrained fabric freely expresses its fluidity.
Enhancing these fluid shapes with linen and silk jersey, drama was created with the use of dark colors. Black and ebony rule the day, with white and natural hues enlivened by flashed of orange, wisteria violet and bright pink.
[SARA CONDE & LISA HELM]
Photos courtesy of Ter et Bantine