PARIS, Oct 1, 2008 / FW/ — How many permutations can a designer do with a single silhouette? Is it enough to make a collection that makes a statement without boring the audience? Olivier Theyskens answered those questions with his Nina Ricci Spring 2009 catwalk show.
The silhouette – a tunic dress with a train; describing it another way, a dress with an asymmetrical hemline that is a mini skirt at the front becoming full length at the back. And quite frankly, the look works!
Giving a nod to the season’s transparent trend, Theyskens opened with a long-sleeve organza tunic with the model wearing black tights and black stilettos. Seeming simple in front, the back featured the requisite train with a twist. Theyskens divided the train into three, splitting it right at the end of the spine, thus giving the dress a more fluid shape.
The second was similar, but with puff sleeves and ruffled neckline, making it look Victorian. In fact, Theyskens actually went for Victorian style, including the occasional pantsuit set. Cigarette pants were given wings on the outseam to mimic a train when looking at the front as it perfectly matched the lines and fabric of the tuxedo jacket. Masterful tailoring, but how many women will wear an outfit that makes their hips look bigger?
Keeping the collection thematic and directional all throughout, Theyskens successfully created several variations of the tunic with a train silhouette. Endearing, sweet and quite delectable, Nina Ricci just reached out to the 14 – 34 age group.
Even when Theyskens decided to ‘undress’ his ‘Victorian lady’, the lingerie inspired clothes mixed well with the rest of the collection.
Paris Fashion Week Spring 2009