Runway Shows

Giuliano Fujiwara Menswear Fall 2009: Wabi-sabi Aesthetic Philosophy

Giuliano Fujiwara Menswear Fall 2009

Giuliano Fujiwara Menswear Fall 2009

MILAN, Jan 22, 2009 / FW/ — Building on the Japanese aesthetic philosophy wabi-sabi wherein the shade or tint is treated as the dimension connecting and melting two different colors, Masataka Matsumura designing for Giuliano Fujiwara extended that concept to texture, thus aside from creating different washes of gray, there is that delightful transition from smooth to plush.

In a season wherein overt luxury is frowned upon, Matsumura’s signature subtlety worked very well in the slim and minimal silhouettes that he sent on the runway. The phrase ‘contrasting colors’ took on a new meaning as he played with the different washes of gray from either an amalgamation of black and white or morphing textures.

Using hidden pleats, Matsumura wove his magic on jackets that seemed to break up in several pieces but maintained a very architectural shape. Opting for extra light denim, a fabric manufactured in Japan that produces an unusual tweed effect, through hundreds of tiny drops of hand sprayed color, a futuristic look surfaced.

Demonstrating that his mastery of tailoring techniques, Matsumura cut the trousers narrower at the bottom, enhancing the ankle, and wider around the hips; at times a hidden pleat opens up on the side of the leg, thus creating a dynamic effect.

[MARI DAVIS]

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