MILAN, Mar 17, 2009 / FW/ — For Fall 2009, Manuela Arcari designing under the label Ter et Bantine focused on the construction of the clothes, concentrating on volumes and thus conveying the impression of solid modern sophistication.
The silhouettes, though obviously a response to the current sobriety in fashion zeitgeist, is more than even, also Arcari’s unhesitating conviction of “turning wearability into creativity.”
“Fashion must become more human,” says Manuela Arcari. “It must turn into wearable creativity.”
And thus, Manuela Arcari’s forms are sculptured, rather than cut; seem stolen from constructivism art. The heavy, thick and stiff fabrics possess a virtually male severity. Even satin is opaque, thus reminding materials marked by the patina of age.
The figure seems molded by a chisel: it widens at the top to highlight the bust, and narrows in short skirts and jersey trousers that are often worn over leggings. Bust-enhancing pleated and flared skirts devoid of all subtle hints vaguely refer to the ‘80s.
Colors are few, classical black prevails, followed by grey, camel, cream and a few flashes of red. Even decorations are based on volumes: discs, cylinders, cubes and scales. Matt sequins fringes peep out from under masculine white shirts. Short dresses fashioned along the 1960s’ trends ensure a touch of coquetry.
The catwalk flooded by daylight with models parading before showroom windows creates the stills of a black and white Neorealist movie, bringing out the realism of winter fashion really designed for the winter in terms of fabric weight and thickness.
A make-believe fashion world that seeks sincerity in materials and forms, without renouncing originality.