MADRID, Sep 23, 2008 / FW/ — When a fashion designer delves into the world of physics, it is easy to assume that the clothing has to be high concept. When Ana Locking said that her inspiration is Alexander Stepabonner Marcus, a Russian physicist who developed the Theory of Energy Conversion Marker of Succes or ‘Arch of Triumph’, first thing that came to mind was how would she translate it in terms of fashion.
Calling her Spring 2009 collection ‘Arc D’Hysterie’ Ana Locking began with mercury grey silk with chiffon, crêpe satin and mikado trending upwards towards dye blues and lime greens through taffeta, dupion and imperial faille for fabric choices.
And, continuing the concept of the Energy Conversion theory, the top of the arch is reached with the black of duchesse satin, raffia and linen, all strewn with Swarovski crystal precious stone embroidery to finally descend through the arch with a blend of mink and ivory in organza, chiffon, pailette and crêpe satin.
The structure of the entire collection is based on a bustier with a slight 1950s touch, which enhances the figure but without hugging the waist.
It begins with short monochrome dresses with tiered chiffon overlays which add lightness to a loose silhouette but which little by little changes towards the intermission into two antagonistic directions: on the one hand, the straight line of tailoring and, on the other, the undulating movement of curves and frill cascades, creating a balance between strictness and anarchy.
The collection ends with long aerial dresses with coordinated transparencies once again in women and tailored suits revealing long shirts in men.
And as for Alexander Stepabonner Marcus, he was actually famous among fashion designers who were alive during his time. Making Paris as his home since 1907 when he was appointed president of the Institute Fisicotécnico Paris, Jeanne Lanvin, Jacques Fath, Jean Patou, Coco Channel and Elsa Schiaparelli, among others had seen his famous Arch of Triumph machine at work.
It is said that his machine was responsible for the success of the aforementioned designers. Now, whether that claim is another theory or real, still remains to be proven, as always the case in the scientific world, data is needed for proof.
Photos courtesy of Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week
Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week