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Dunhill Menswear Fall 2009: A Momentous Task

Dunhill Menswear Fall 2009

Dunhill Menswear Fall 2009

PARIS, Jan 27, 2009 / FW/ — Whether it’s good timing or bad timing, only time will tell; Dunhill re-launching its label in the middle of a recession can go either way. British designer Kim Jones had been assigned this gargantuan task of revitalizing the century-old British label.

The first ever Creative Director of the brand since Alfred Dunhill himself, Kim Jones known for his sportive creations has to find the perfect balance between his own aesthetics and Dunhill; then he has to do a balancing act between the history of the brand and how he envisions its future. And that vision, he unveiled last Sunday at the La Maison de l’Architecture here in Paris.

Proposing slim jackets with Peter Pan collars alongside classic double-breasted suits and trench coats, Kim Jones is sending the message to Dunhill fans that change is on the way meant for the hip and young but the signature Dunhill gentleman is not being forgotten.

The color block sweaters, hooded traveling coats and blousons with hidden plackets and high pockets are not the usual fare for the current Dunhill clientele, but these are pieces that will appeal to them. The designs are not groundbreaking but for a label wherein 46% of its sales worldwide are menswear, anything that will upset the status quo is a risk it has to take.

Kim Jones, who took the creative helm only last year had taken his first volley and so far, it’s good. It is only baby steps, but remember, Rome was not built in a day.

[SARA CONDE]

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Paris Menswear Fall 2009