PARIS, Jan 25, 2009 / FW/ — In a fast-paced high energy show last Friday night, John Galliano became the presumptive king of menswear as he uncovered and unveiled the modernistic fantasy gentleman, which is more than likely the new fashion Adam.
Since the turn of the century, we have trying to find the new look for the 21st century gentleman. Yet, we had never defined him nor see what he is like, i.e. until now when John Galliano under the glow of 18,000 candles explained that the man of the 2000s and 2010s is an amalgamation of those who had gone before him but he is also more than the sum of his historical past.
So, how does John Galliano see the 21st century gent? He is part 16th century European aristocrat with his white wig, part American revolutionary with his tricorne hat and pirate boots. Riding coat with wide lapels, vests adorned with embroidery and three-piece pin-striped suit together with a peacoat are paired with the less formal leather trousers and denim breeches.
The mythical phoenix and hip hop became one to wear different variations of trousers – loose fitting jeans with the Galliano Gazette logo, printed long johns, and Capri-length cargo pants.
Among the different characters presented, John Galliano’s interpretation of Shakespeare’s Midsummer Night Dream Puck was the crowd’s favorite. With the six-pack abs painted on their torso, Puck wants men to wear shin-length trousers, double-breasted outer coat with shearling and radical shirts that say, “Society Beauties by Day, party girls by night.”
And don’t forget the lingerie. From briefs to boxer shorts, it was Galliano Gazette logo fest that quite frankly one wonders how long a man will wear it once inside the bedroom anyway.
The collection and the catwalk show are signature John Galliano exuberance. Yet, even without looking deeply into the message, the British designer touched on the current zeitgeist. A very obvious example is the six-pack abs drawn into the torso. In the U.S., although it is in the middle of a recession, gym memberships and diet pills are still being heavily advertised, which means that a large number of the population is still dreaming of that perfect body.
Then, there is the fantasy element in the collection which references to the continuous involvement of the 18 – 34 year old males with video games, MMORPG and movies that deals with the sci-fi / fantasy genre.
While the Fall 2009 menswear season is starting to wind down, John Galliano is just starting to bring men’s fashion to the second decade of the 21st century.
[MARI DAVIS]
Photos by FW
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