PARIS, Jan 26, 2009 (Updated Feb 8, 2009) / FW/ — A beautiful rendition of the Euro-Japanese aesthetics that started developing during the second part of the 20th century, Kazuyuki Kumagai proposed a predominantly black collection that is timeless and masculine.
With references to the classics, grunge and rock & roll, Kazuyuki Kumagai morphed the three into one so that they are recognizable but they have also taken on a new form, which is a very hard feat for a designer to achieve, even for the very experienced ones. Kumagai can accomplish effortlessly because he has an intimate understanding of the fabric.
With a hands-on involvement during the technical development of the fabric, Kumagai knows and understands the material 100%. Under his hands, the fabric becomes malleable, following Kumagai’s wishes as the designer cut, fold and drape.
For Fall 2009, crumpled neoprene was given shearling lining to create a waterproof and warm jacket. The windbreaker was turned into a gigantic cowboy bandana enough to cover the human torso; a neoprene jacket was given minimum quilting but still has the effect usually associate with quilting.
Kumagai also played with texture – leather and cotton were crumpled while woolen-based materials were adorned with embroidery.
[MARI DAVIS]
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