MILAN, Jan 19, 2010 / — For Fall 2010, it is all about masculine elegance at Haute. Inspired by the movies of James Ivory and Jane Campion in Portrait of a Lady, there are undercurrents of sexuality suggested by the luxe fabrics.
Velvet plays the key role: “ processed and worsted”, it lays at the base of a strictly slim man’s suit. Experimenting in fabric brings the dinner jacket – one of the strong points of the collection – to be worn on a daily basis with its contrasting shiny silver lapels and its low-waist straight-cut trousers.
Coats – trenches, jackets – take from the Aviator style, but in the case of the 6-pocket hooded parka they turn into couture through refined crochet work featured on the insides, while the outside leather is processed with a special shine.
There is a juxtaposition of fabrics – with a patchwork feel – for the Montgomery coat once again inspired by the Aviator, in sheepskin and wool outside, and oversized hood; and for the moiré trench, with removable goatskin inside.
For white or striped shirts focus is on classic tradition, to be worn with waistcoats in leather or velvet, and likewise for accessories: scarves featuring crocheted fringes blending jacquard wool and checks.