MILAN, Feb 26, 2010 / FW/ — “I got myself caught in the game of revisitations, but even more, in the intrigue generated by material contaminations, with results that aim at originality and novelty,” wrote Gaetano Navarra in his press notes.
Known for his masterful tailoring and accurate construction, Gaetano Navarra took inspiration from the late 1960s and early 1970s as seen in the varying lengths of hemlines on the runway, from the decidedly short skirts to the “midi” coats, even in the iconic bell bottom pants that defined the decade.
Absolute focus is on the fantasy wool fabric of Chanel-style suits, in various sizes and proportions, from micro to macro, with jackets, dresses, coats and skirts featuring raw-cut ruffles and large silvery studs that are almost a fil rouge.
Alternatively, we have a leather skirt with almost-punk chains, to be worn with an ultra-sweet silk crêpe blouse in nude color. Lace and rush matting texture are other recurrent themes: in dress with alternate lace and cover-up fabric, in the mini-jacket in lace with in-folding raglan sleeves.
Crochet knitwear and chains combine and likewise tweed patchwork, leopard prints, silver fabrics. Silver was also chosen for the “strong” necklaces featuring large links and globes.
The coat combines tweed, lurex, lace and quilted wool. The Montgomery coat opts for leather, lace and tweed. The trench coat comes with silk jacquard sleeves. Skirts and dresses are bequeathed with elegance and volumes thanks to draping and ruffles; the knitwear dress features small rips and running thread that is a miracle of technology.
Sometimes studs in different sizes take over, re-designing the mini-dresses and “armour” skirts in which studs overlay soft layers of pleats. Tweed is speckled with bent and burnt sequins.
Shoes are audacious, with shocking 20 cm heels that are “invisible” in flesh color, while the foot is swathed in chamois leather in a bow just over the heel.
The bounce-back game between black and nude rules the palette, with the exceptions of silver, a few dashes of bronze, more than discrete touches of blue in a fur neck and of burgundy in a blouse.