MILAN, Jan 16, 2011 / — Blue collars in Thirties style, workers in steel mills, railwaymen: Haute men’s collection for the next Autumn-Winter, the first designed by Marcus Constable, takes inspiration from the working uniforms of the past.
With a renewed spirit, in a contemporary and sophisticated version: in fact, while its cuts recall the workers uniforms’, manufacture and models’ structures are complex, nuances are particular and materials are studied in minute detail.
The wardrobe with a retro style has a determined character and counts on the personalization of the look.
Supported by contrast matching – therefore trousers rolled up to the ankle – enriched with knitted details on the turn up – are matched with sartorial coats in herringbone wool.
The collection is studied in minute detail: cigarette trousers are trimmed with washed leather stripes on the side stitching; leather becomes a functional detail and couture even on jacket, to reinforce armpits.
T-shirts and jackets gain appeal and personality thanks to décor details: aged sequins decorate starched collars; chains of golden and silver metal twist and become embroideries on the lapels of classic jackets and dinner-jackets.
The dressing-gown, precious and with a refined structure, is enriched by plissé and wrap-around collars and can have different lengths.
The great protagonist of the Winter collection is knitwear: jackets and fisherman jumpers are made precious by trim panels knitted with thick ply where leather intertwines with wool. Classic models are reviewed: the traditional V-neck plays on innovative asymmetries and patchwork that reinterpret classic patches. Sleeves, at the elbow, are manufactured with ladders and holes, hidden by tweed and herringbone wool.
The palette ranges from the new colours of knitwear – burned orange, mustard yellow, olive green – to traditional tones of the sartorial models: navy blue, grey, brown and black. Cream white jersey, black and olive green complete the outfit. Mud colour patterns and digital prints in black and white give a contemporary look to t-shirts and denim.
Milano Moda Uomo Fall 2011