NEW YORK FASHION WEEK / — With Spain on headline news due to the Catalan independence movement, designer Alejandra Alonso Rojas refocuses the attention of fashionistas to Madrid’s mountainous countryside with her Fall 2018 collection.
Exploring her family’s heritage and the enduring appeal of the region’s nonchalant, sophisticated aesthetic, Rojas proposes ultra-feminine silhouettes with lots of handcrafted details. For Fall 2018, her signature hand-knit pullovers, crafted in cashmere and wool, are updated this season, featuring Pointelle stitch patterns and elegant cables that serpentine gracefully across the garments.
Hand-embroidered floral patterns appear on a variety of luxurious cardigans and crewnecks. A buttonless cardigan, with blouson sleeves, is crocheted with fine Japanese silk yarns in a delicate v-and-fan stitch pattern and paired with a supple leather obi belt. Particularly eye-catching, a sleeveless turtleneck and matching skirt are crocheted in v-and-fan stitching in a distinctive striping pattern composed of this season’s rich color palette: blanco, malva, gris, rojo, and azul.
Prints this season include a watercolor floral design, inspired by the distant memory of a vintage wallpaper that covered the walls of the countryside home of the designer’s grandmother. Conceived in two colorways, a grey version invites the fantasy of a snowy, “whiteout” dreamscape, while a pink and blue version offers an optimistic and seasonless burst of color.
The prints appear in billowy and asymmetrical dresses and long skirts, constructed of various pairings of satin, chiffon, and silk georgette, and in a casual, yet sophisticated hooded parka, which cinches perfectly at the waist, ever-so emphasizing the elongated, slouchy sleeves. The print also appears on Alejandra’s signature, impeccably tailored silk suiting and in blousons featuring hand-smocking.
Romantic styles in lace and silk, all custom-dyed, are exceptionally exquisite.
An elevated trench is detail-rich, featuring a silk charmeuse lining, a sash belt, epaulettes on the shoulder and belted sleeves with pleating at the wrists. An enchanting floor-length dress combines silk georgette and panels of custom silk that swirl around the body, is both sensual and graceful. Blouses are elegantly seductive, while skirts move fluidly and dramatically, replete with asymmetric ruffles.
Alejandra Alonso Rojas’s interests in adding sustainable elements to the brand’s ethos is best displayed in several designs that feature signature stripe combinations that rely solely on recycled Nappa leathers and lambskin suedes. The striping techniques, created using couture-level craftsmanship and demonstrating Alejandra’s expertise in leatherwork, allow for more of the skin to be used and for colored leathers and suedes, taken from previous collections, to be repurposed and reprised.
As a result, several unique and beautiful garments have been born, featuring color combinations that are quite striking. A soft and powdery malva stripe appears on a trench coat with dropped shoulders, for an easeful fit, and on a pencil skirt, accessorized with suede-covered buttons. A bold red stripe is featured on a belted kimono jacket and on a fitted trouser with supremely clean finishing. Lastly, a powerful, electric blue stripe is featured on a kimono-style top and matching mini skirt.
Sourced by Saga furs and certified sustainable, a mink wrap coat, featuring a kimono crop sleeve and matching belt, is both regal and sumptuous, a modern take on a classic winter staple. A cozy mink boatneck pullover is lined in a custom-designed pinstripe silk for complete comfort. A reversible shearling lambskin coat, featuring leather-bound buttonholes and fur stich detailing epitomizes luxury.
More casual fare includes a youthful cashmere fleece hoodie, artfully draped and incredibly versatile, a pair of flawlessly fitting denim culottes, and a selection of Italian-crafted fine gauge knits, a trademark of Alejandra’s burgeoning heritage collection.
Photos courtesy of Alejandra Alonso Rojas