Bending. Distorting. This is what Y/PROJECT’s Glenn Martens does when it comes to offering his vision of fashion and art. From the mutant Strauss soundtrack to the upside-down looks he sends down the runway, the Y/PROJECT FEMME SS20 show is a pure manifesto of what the brand stands for: versatility as a means of individual expression.

Under the arches of Pont Alexandre III, an engineering marvel of the Belle Epoque, Martens is painting the portrait of a multi-faceted woman, a woman who wears a classic-not-so-classic cardigan/skirt combination with a gold chain bag at day, and a revealing split dress at night.

Over the past 6 years, Glenn Martens has broadened the realm of creative possibilities at Y/PROJECT, inventing his own aesthetic language that he likes to reinterpret and twist. This season, he brings back from his early collections the trompe l’oeil spiral print, where optical illusions accentuate the woman’ silhouettes, but also delicate lace details and the preppy multiple V-neck sweater, building up on the brand’s heritage.

Transmuted historical references anchor the collection in eclectic artistic landscapes: the dramatic gowns, now a much anticipated moment every season, seem to come straight out of the Middle Age or the Tudor era. Bavarian dirndl corsets are enhanced with effusions of taffeta concealing generous cleavages. The characteristic optimism and profusion of the Belle Epoque run through the collection.

The showstopper layered tulle suits from last season are continued as dresses and ensemble variations where the layers of fabric create patches of colors and draw a moving silhouette.

Lace is taken away from its romantic connotation and is the object of textile experimentation this season: sewn on the inside of tulle tops, intricate tulle and lace trimmings create visual effects when in motion.

Tailoring is also a strong story line of the collection, from spencer jackets to pop-up blazer dresses, from pinstripe tulle-covered suits to twisted fitted coat.

Regarding accessories, the Linda Farrow collaboration is completed by a new model of sunglasses this season. The trapeze Doctor bag is proposed in a smaller day-to-day version (contrasting with its extra long equivalent), and the bowling bag unveiled during the men’s collection is now equipped with silver and golden chains. New spiral heart-shaped earrings are introduced, as well as a new generation of broche that can be hung on the button hole of a blazer. A sleek pair of denim boots with a Japanese-inspired pointy toe extend the brand’s shoe line one step further.

Y/PROJECT SPRING SUMMER 2020 is an eruption of architectural ideas and aesthetic references, with fabric swirling around, reshaping silhouettes and unveiling a versatile woman.


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