In a grim tunnel just below the Manhattan Bridge, to the notes of Dev Hynes performed by the Brooklyn String Orchestra (which included Risso himself on cello) and a packed front row that included Madonna, Kendall Jenner and Doja Cat, Marni succeeded where nature itself would fail: setting the sun in the middle of the night. “The sunset is not a phenomenon of the sun – taking place on the horizon – but a phenomenon of the body – setting the sky on fire” says Risso. Clothes in hallucinogenic and luminous colours, DIY mohair, daring cut-outs and psychedelic prints, in a palette that faithfully reproduces all the shades that light takes on as day falls, are combined with a skilful play on layering. Transparencies, velvet and satin are added, while the knitwear that has made Risso’s Marni mainstream in the world takes on a more edgy declination, with rips, sharp hems and degradé combinations.
