MILAN, Sep 21, 2008 / FW/ — A high-concept collection that played on volume, structure and fluidity, Gaetano Navarra’s Spring 2009 collection anything and everything rolled into one.
The press notes said it was inspired by the eccentric ladies of The Hamptons, ever heedless of fashion dictates and create their own trends. The muse might be American, the shapes from the 1930s and the distinct volumes a re-interpretation of the 1980s but the collection is definitely Gaetano Navarra as the Italian designer put his thumbprint in a new glam wherein shapes, waistlines and flounces had been re-imagined.
In the elucidation of these new silhouettes, Gaetano Navarra used drawstrings, drapings and pleats to breath a new life to traditional shapes. Pleats precisely defined the degradé dress featuring twelve shades of gray, from anthracite to ice.
A rich sense of volume is achieved through draping and fabrication, as it is moved towards the back so as to keep the front simple and clean. Otherwise, constructions are firmer, shift away from the figure, as in the tailored blazer with whalebone basin.
Navarra was also experimental in his choices of fabric as he pushed the envelope on traditional luxe materials like washed silk, linen, silky jersey knit, sheer organza in three layers.
Using haute couture techniques, Navarra created substance and form as he mixed and matched leather with laminated cotton organza. All for utter balance in an exquisite contrast spirit: the silk blazer has mesh sleeves; the trench coat combines organza and netting; the structured caban comes over loose trousers.
Photos courtesy of Gaetano Navarra