NEW YORK, Sep 20, 2008 / Fw/ — Telfar presents an interesting challenge for those who believe that New York Fashion Week is about designers presenting rehashed, safe ideas for the American shopper. His Spring/Summer 2009 collection entitled “Breathe”, offers a bright, yet tongue-in-cheek twist on classic sportswear.
His show, held at the gymnasium in St. Patrick’s Old Cathedral in Soho, picks up the sports enthusiasm baton at the tail end of this year’s Olympic Games. The opening look, a two-piece white skirt set with a body hugging tank and deep hanging, peninsula shaped pockets, further explores his interest in seemingly simple but ultimately complex, androgynous garments. Worn by a model with luminescent, nearly wet appearing skin, this look could be envisioned on Serena Williams at any of her winning matches. However, it is better suited for someone within the international fashion set.
The collection continued on a decidedly sunnier note, offering halter neck tops and mesh shorts in vibrant hues of blue, white and yellow. Although the designer strayed away from his usual somber palette of black, white and neutrals, he maintained his usage of sweeping circular shapes to form interesting silhouettes.
Stand-out pieces included a perfect introduction to his foray into denim with utilitarian jumpsuits that detached into separate jacket and pants at the waist. Accessories hit the mark as well with mesh tennis visors and innovative Jack Purcell by Converse sneakers customized with squishy tennis ball heels. Other collaborations with Victor Osbourne and Bike Friday (who provided Telfar branded bicycles for the model’s to ride during the finale) are telling signs of growth for the young designer.
Creating clothes to such an intelligent effect is why Telfar is of great necessity to the New York fashion scene. He provides a cerebral balance to the designers that create clothes for the masses, in the similar vein of Junya Watanabe or Rei Kawakubo in Paris. Hopefully, he will soon be recognized for his avant-garde, yet accessible approach to fashion, which provides New York Fashion Week with the breath of fresh air it so desperately needs.
[SHAUN J. WRIGHT]
Photos by Shaun J. Wright