PARIS, Jan 24, 2009 / FW/ — Skinny pants, square suits and quilted coats, with fingerless gloves and boxer masks as accessories, Ute Ploier’s vision for Fall 2009 seems to be a tribute to the boxer to the point that there also exists a pun as seen on the boxy jackets.
The winner of the Best Men’s Collection of the 2003 Hyeres Festival, Ute Ploier has carved a niche for herself in the menswear fashion scene with her imaginative silhouettes. Always experimenting with fabric, Ploier who trained under Jean-Charles Castelbajac, Viktor & Rolf and Raf Simons mixed high-tech materials like neoprene with natural fibers.
Standouts in this collection are the knitted sweaters. Proposed with a collar that mimics a neatly arranged fire hose or as a cardigan with vertical braids, the Austrian-born designer made sweaters a fashion statement and not just a functional garment.
Ploier also has an interesting take on the outer coat. Oversized, boxy and double-breasted, the collar can be worn laying flat or it could be raised to protect the wearer’s neck from the cold.
Photos by Pascal-Ambroise Arnaud