MILAN, Mar 1, 2009 / FW/ — While Peter Dundas obviously has his own fans, I am a big Emilio Pucci fan; so, it goes without saying that for the Norwegian designer’s debut for Emilio Pucci, I am very disappointed because he took away the color exuberance and optimism that is an intricate part of the DNA of the brand.
Okay, I understand that there is a big trend right now about sobriety in fashion. So, in a way, I understand why Peter Dundas chose dark colors, even solid black. But, too much is too much. Leather and denim; an eagle on a blouse; a military-inspired cape in black… is this Emilio Pucci or did I walk into a wormhole and found myself in the underground fashion scene of Antwerp?
Some would probably call me a purist; after all, I’m looking for the Emilio Pucci that I know. But, I have also seen Christian Lacroix and Matthew Williamson infuse their inimitable style into the brand, and still retain the intrinsic DNA of Emilio Pucci.
I’m not saying that the collection is not good. Personally, I love the denim patches bustier dress adorned with crystals. I would love to own the black long-sleeved mini dress with a zipper closure from neck to hemline and encrusted with semi-precious stones. I will definitely wear the jeans with all the zippers!
But, these pieces I will expect from G-Star, even Diesel, and if I may add, DSquared2 on the list. These three are on top of my list for street wear clothes and would recommend them to anyone who would listen. But, I draw the line for Emilio Pucci because in my mind, it is not street.
Or maybe, I am totally off the mark in my assessment. Maybe the management of Emilio Pucci is testing the waters for a secondary younger line. That’s the only good explanation I can think of why the Fall 2009 collection went this way.