MILAN, Feb 28, 2010 / FW/ — Entitled “Metamorphosis, a New Sense of Balance”, the Gabriele Colangelo Fall 2010 collection is a study in texture as the Milanese designer mixed different kinds of materials resulting into unexpected beauties and shapes.
Textures, altered as minerals, produce rough relief effects. Mixes of wool suddenly ruffle, and create compact waves, which expand themselves to become part of the texture. Boiled wool is doubled into light cotton-cloth, and turn into irregular shapes that call to mind the micro fissures of the Japanese ceramics. The double-crepe imitates the visual effect of flint; while silk-linen jacquards create the effect of plasterworks eroded by time.
Everything changes. And the new origin reveals the final effect: metamorphosis comes on the clothes.
Spires merge into textures and fibers come together to make boundaries vanish, to allow diverse compositions to become one. Spirals by plissé suddenly create marble folds into fan-shaped silhouettes.
Organdie and chiffon tie together to imitate the sinuous chiaroscuro effects of the rock faces; light textures of silky filaments appear coloured into different scale of grey and lime, embroidered by micro-crystals and beads, which remain as metallic sediments. Embroidered sections of chiffon, recycled as it has been consumed by time, seem shiny shreds of oxidized crystals.
The scale of charcoal grey and pyrite turn into pale gold and neutral tones, while rare touches of verdigris appear on micro-stripes of chiffon embroidered by brilliant glassy stones, spread as pulverized fragments.
Raku ceramics pay tribute to harmony and grace existing into details, and to the beauty articulated by minimalism. It inspires the chromatic selection that prefers quick reflections in lime and shiny surfaces for the graceful anver-satin dresses, arched into delicate drapes.
Extra-light leather for pants and clothes is gently undulating, curved by the breeze.
Fur is unique and precious; mink in suede, unlined, and hand-sewed broadtails worked into comfortable and sportive shapes.
Shoes, produced by BiondaCastana, are in natural suede and varnished varan.