Palomo Spain presented its eighth collection, “1916”, at the Pier59 Studios in New York during the first day of NYFW: MEN’S. Accompanied by personalities such as Steven Klein, Patti Willson, Derek Blasberg, Chloe Wise, Nicola Formichetti, Sean Ford and Jacob Bixenman, who was also part of the casting of the show. The designer has proposed for next Fall 2019 a collection inspired by Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes and the rural Spain of the early 20th century. This combination of concepts may appear odd at first until one delves deeper to learn that in 1916, the celebrated dance troupe – considered to be the past century’s most influential ballet company – sought refuge from WWI in Spain, at the invitation of the Count of Miranda.
The basis of the collection lies in classical, masculine tailoring, with its traditional codes, combined with softer touches. Two main silhouettes – both concerned with the distance between the wearer’s skin and the garment itself – predominate.
1916 – as Gomez Palomo has named his collection – is a turning point in Palomo Spain’s history. He is looking at things in a new way now, and is going through a process of ‘purification’. The Palomo boy has evolved into a less retrospective one than before. His clothes may contain
historical references, but his attitude is modern. He likes his clothes to be luxurious, made of the best materials, but their use now is innovative than their predecessors’.
The refined selection of fabrics ranges from fine silks and taffetas, to thick wool, cashmere, and cotton velvets, are joined by waterproof technical fabrics, tassels and pom-poms. It also has the first print designed by the Palomo house, which deconstructs the classic “polka dot”.
The accessories are divided into shoes, bags, belts, gloves and hats. The latter, made in Seville by Reyes Hellín, consist of the classic Cordovan hat reinvented in patent leather and with an exaggeratedly wide brim, and others like three-cornered hats inspired by those of the Royal Guard.
Underneath all of this, comes the fruit of Gomez Palomo’s latest collaboration with Spanish lingerie brand Andres Sarda with who he has created a collection of underwear that contains boxer shorts, slips and vests in typical Palomo Spain sensual materials.
The look is completed with hairstyles by Martin Plascencia with Moroccanoilsupport and make up by Baltasar Gonzalez Pinel using M·A·C Cosmeticsproducts. There are also tattoos, which Gomez Palomo created with Tattooing.
Photos: Thomas Barnes