Ermenegildo Zegna XXX kicked off Milan’s Fashion Week last Friday with a runway unfolding beyond the city limits, below the extremely high ceilings of an immense industrial building that once hosted Area Falck. The site is soon to be redesigned into a hub for health and science gaining a new relationship with the city. It was in this same spirit that the Spring/Summer 2020 collection was presented. With “#UseTheExisting,” the brand celebrated once again a commitment to “Reuse and reinvent the existing, getting progressive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative lifetime tailoring, turning an abandoned place into an area,” Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori explained.
The collection was an ode to industrial elegance, enhancing the precision of lines of pragmatic suits, and the weightlessness of the sartorial construction with blousons, shirts, and polo-shirts worn with matching trousers. Firm yet extremely light fabrics were used with mastery to create neat silhouettes. Adding depth to materials and giving tempo to surfaces were flattened crinkles, photo-prints of graphic assemblages, and progressive stripe patterns creating a gestural, pictorial feel. In line with the functional mood of the space, accessories were pragmatic, as well.