MILAN, Feb 26, 2009 / FW/ — Looking towards the future, Gaetano Navarra was inspired by the austereness and grandiose of the Blade Runner woman – austere in the sense that everything she wore is functional, yet grandiose at the same time due to the design elements.
Emphasizing the female figure with the tiny waists which was made tinier with padded shoulders and sculpted skirts, Gaetano Navarra created a new concept – austere elegance. Proposing a wardrobe of nothing more than just the essentials – jacket and trousers, blouse and skirt and a dress, the austere aspect was reached.
Looking at the careful attention to details beginning with the pagoda-shoulders shown on blazers and spencers, dresses and coats, blouses and tops, to the crinoline whalebones that detach the jacket’s basque from the body, the elegance and grandiose portion was accomplished.
Shoulders had been turned into a sexy element, as they remain even when the sleeves go missing or are placed on the side, redefining the figure. Bodices are sculpted, thus creating an ‘armored’ look; back flaps are added to skirts to create volume.
Continuing to push the envelope, Gaetano Navarra played with the materials. Wool, a classic men’s fabric was subjected to the most daring constructions, even to hot pressed scale pleating. Felt is raw cut, just like the tulle of the lightest of blouses, enriched around the neckline by woolen “feathers” sprinkled with jais.
The mix of materials reaches its apex in dresses combining velvet, cadì, georgette – tracing a sort of anatomy of the figure. A neutral color palette echoes the austere philosophy – black, midnight blue, grey, camel, with a sprinkling of burgundy and silver for drama.
Accessories are warrior helmets covered in shimmering blades alternate with cloche hats bearing giant and sculptural roses in felt and velvet, with a heart of metal wire. Belts – in velvet, lizard-skin or elasticized fabric – are simple ribbons, but are always worn double, same color but different height and material.
Photos courtesy of Gaetano Navarra