Held at the “Les deux plateaux”, Daniel Buren, sculpture in situ, 1985-1986, cour d’honneur du Palais-Royal, Paris, the collection was named after the 1975 illustrated book by Swiss artist David Weiss, the collection considers the progressive wardrobe of an urban artist by revisiting multiple identities from the past and present.
The layered silhouette emerges with a raw softness and amplified proportions – blurring the limits of sportswear and the sartorial – wandering through Parisian poetry and the notions of
New York skate culture.
Painted shades of brick orange and Études cobalt blue punctuate the neutral canvas of grey marle, cream, black and bright white, in harmony with the balance of rough and smooth fabrics from fine Italian cotton voile to coated linen, stretch jersey, cotton piqué and bonded nylon.
Each textile evolves the mix of crisp and crumpled textures, which imbue the spacious silhouette with an attitude of lived-in elegance. Building up from flared skater shorts or cropped straight trousers, giant square tunics fall long in the back or drape at the neck, and exaggerated polo tops feature elongated zip plackets to accentuate the play of fluidity versus streetwear.
Multiple sleeve lengths and snap-stud fastenings create a haphazard, nonchalant layering of zipped shirting and poncho coats – enhancing the imperfect, awkward elegance of the season’s soft felt hats and bicolour derbies with a rounded toe.
In partnership with artist duo Adrien Horni and Linus Bill, the physical intervention of large-scale silkscreen patchworks are superimposed onto suiting and outerwear, achieving a handmade sensibility as irregular swatches peel off flat surfaces.
Photos courtesy of Études Studio